Los Lagos

Great flan and margaritas. Los Lagos on Groton Avenue in Cortland, and that's the honest pitch for it: the flan is right and the margaritas will actually do something. Both of those at a Mexican restaurant in a CNY city of Cortland's size are not guaranteed, and at Los Lagos they're both delivered correctly.

All three sub-ratings at five. Food at five means the kitchen is cooking Mexican food with actual intention rather than running through the American approximation of it. The proteins are fresh, the sauces have depth, the chilis mean what they say they mean. Service at five on a Saturday night in downtown Cortland means the front of house is organized and engaged, not just staffed. Atmosphere at five means the room has character and the noise level during service makes the place feel alive rather than loud.

Down on Groton Avenue, you've got Pontillo's a few blocks away and Prandium up the street, which makes for a genuinely good Cortland dining triangle if you're spending a weekend here. Los Lagos handles the Mexican slot in that mix correctly. Five stars, will keep coming back for the flan specifically. That's a dish a lot of restaurants put on the menu and only some of them execute. This one does.